CHEMISTRY AND TECHNOLOGY OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS

The student will gain a general knowledge of the rules governing the handling, processing and production of herbal products in their various uses (pharmaceutical, healthy, cosmetics, food), as well as their presentation and marketing in herbalist's shop and pharmacy.It will also acquired information on national and European regulations on the additional areas of interest of the herbalist (cosmetics, food and special foods, dietary supplements, fortified foods, Novel Foods).

Frontal teaching. Should teaching be carried out in mixed mode or remotely, it may be necessary to introduce changes with respect to previous statements, in line with the programme planned and outlined in the syllabus.

Chapter I – General concepts of cosmetic regulations

Definition of cosmetic product; Cosmetics versus drugs; European regulations on cosmetic products manufacturing; INCI and CTFA nomenclatures; Labeling on products and advertising; Product durability and PAO (period after opening); Safety and efficacy of a cosmetic product; Vigilance on cosmetic products.

Chapter II – Main characteristics and features of the skin

Skin structure; Skin biological functions; The horny layer and the skin barrier properties; Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and the perspiratio insensibilis; Sebaceous and sweat glands; Biophysical characteristics of the skin; Skin types (normal, dry, oily, mixed).

Chapter III – Structure and characteristics of hair

Hair structure; Hair cycle; Chemical and physical characteristics of the hair; Hair damages

Chapter IV – Skin hydration and hydrating cosmetic treatments

Skin water content; The role of epidermis and horny layer; Hydrating cosmetic treatments; Humectants; NMF substituting factors; lipid intake.

Chapter V – Percutaneous absorption and cosmetic products

Definition of cosmeceutic; In vitro evaluation of percutaneous absorption; Vehicle effects influencing percutaneous absorption. The penetration enhancers.

Chapter VI – Raw material of cosmetics

Natural and synthetic products; Main vegetable matrices used for the production of cosmetic raw materials; Oils and fats, waxes, hydrocarbons, esters, silicones: chemical characteristics and cosmetic use; Thickening agents: chemical characteristics and cosmetic use; Surfactants: classification, chemical characteristics and cosmetic use; Preservatives: chemical characteristics and cosmetic use; Perfumes: preparation technique and cosmetic use; Essential oil. Natural and synthetic color materials: chemical characteristics and cosmetic use; Color index.

Chapter VII – Cosmetics vehicles: stability and efficacy

Emulsion: definition; Instability phenomena: creaming and sedimentation, flocculation, coalescence; Surfactant and emulsions: criteria for the selection and dermatological compatibility; The HLB theory and determination; Micelles: structure and formation. The critical micellar concentration (CMC); multiple emulsions; gels and suspensions: properties and characteristics.

Chapter VIII – The pigmentary system and the sun care products

The effects of UV radiation on the skin; Endogenous defense mechanism; The pigmentary system and the melanogenesis; Skin and photo types; The sun filters: classification, chemical physical characterization, mechanism of action and problem formulations; Sun protection factor (SPF): determination and efficacy; Fast-tanning products; Artificial tanning; Skin whitening.

Chapter IX – Skin care cosmetics I: body and hair cleansing products

Formulation of body shampoo, emulsions and milky lotion, conditioner and hair care products. Classification of shampoo. Colors and hair dyes: efficacy and safety issues.

Chapter X – Skin care cosmetics II: antiaging products; cosmetics for skin nutrition and cellulite treatment

Purpose, functions and roles of skin care cosmetics. Intrinsic aging and photo-aging: prevention and treatment; Antioxidants; Nutrients supply; Cellulite e anti-cellulite treatments.

• A.O. Barel, M. Paye, H.I. Maibach, Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, Third edition. Informa Healthcare. New York
• T. Mitsui, New Cosmetic Science, editor: Elsevier