CHEMISTRY AND TECHNOLOGY OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS

PROGRAM

Chapter I – General concepts of cosmetic regulations

Definition of cosmetic product; Cosmetics versus drugs; European regulations on cosmetic products manufacturing; INCI and CTFA nomenclatures; Labeling on products and advertising; Product durability and PAO (period after opening); Safety and efficacy of a cosmetic product; Vigilance on cosmetic products.

Chapter II – Main characteristics and features of the skin

Skin structure; Skin biological functions; The horny layer and the skin barrier properties; Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and the perspiratio insensibilis; Sebaceous and sweat glands; Biophysical characteristics of the skin; Skin types (normal, dry, oily, mixed).

Chapter III – Structure and characteristics of hair

Hair structure; Hair cycle; Chemical and physical characteristics of the hair; Hair damages

Chapter IV – Skin hydration and hydrating cosmetic treatments

Skin water content; The role of epidermis and horny layer; Hydrating cosmetic treatments; Humectants; NMF substituting factors; lipid intake.

Chapter V – Percutaneous absorption and cosmetic products

Definition of cosmeceutic; In vitro evaluation of percutaneous absorption; Vehicle effects influencing percutaneous absorption. The penetration enhancers.

Chapter VI – Raw material of cosmetics

Natural and synthetic products; Main vegetable matrices used for the production of cosmetic raw materials; Oils and fats, waxes, hydrocarbons, esters, silicones: chemical characteristics and cosmetic use; Thickening agents: chemical characteristics and cosmetic use; Surfactants: classification, chemical characteristics and cosmetic use; Preservatives: chemical characteristics and cosmetic use; Perfumes: preparation technique and cosmetic use; Essential oil. Natural and synthetic color materials: chemical characteristics and cosmetic use; Color index.

Chapter VII – Cosmetics vehicles: stability and efficacy

Emulsion: definition; Instability phenomena: creaming and sedimentation, flocculation, coalescence; Surfactant and emulsions: criteria for the selection and dermatological compatibility; The HLB theory and determination; Micelles: structure and formation. The critical micellar concentration (CMC); multiple emulsions; gels and suspensions: properties and characteristics.

Chapter VIII – The pigmentary system and the sun care products

The effects of UV radiation on the skin; Endogenous defense mechanism; The pigmentary system and the melanogenesis; Skin and photo types; The sun filters: classification, chemical physical characterization, mechanism of action and problem formulations; Sun protection factor (SPF): determination and efficacy; Fast-tanning products; Artificial tanning; Skin whitening.

Chapter IX – Skin care cosmetics I: body and hair cleansing products

Formulation of body shampoo, emulsions and milky lotion, conditioner and hair care products. Classification of shampoo. Colors and hair dyes: efficacy and safety issues.

Chapter X – Skin care cosmetics II: antiaging products; cosmetics for skin nutrition and cellulite treatment

Purpose, functions and roles of skin care cosmetics. Intrinsic aging and photo-aging: prevention and treatment; Antioxidants; Nutrients supply; Cellulite e anti-cellulite treatments.

• A.O. Barel, M. Paye, H.I. Maibach, Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, Third edition. Informa Healthcare. New York
• T. Mitsui, New Cosmetic Science, editor: Elsevier