TECNOLOGIA FARMACEUTICA - LABORATORIO GALENICO - TECNOLOGIA COSMETICA CON ESERCITAZIONI A - L

Module TECNOLOGIA COSMETICA CON ESERCITAZIONI

The course aims to make the students gain the basic knowledge of the main categories of cosmetic products, the raw materials used for their preparation and the technological properties of personal care and make-up products. In addition, the course provides the students with the basic notions of legislation and marketing of cosmetic products. The theoretical knowledge will be integrated with laboratory activities concerning the main formulations addressed in the course.

Frontal lessons and practical laboratory. Should teaching be carried out in mixed mode or remotely, it may be necessary to introduce changes with respect to previous statements, in line with the programme planned and outlined in the syllabus.

 According to RDA, Art. 12 - Crediti Formativi Universitari (CFU), one CFU, corresponding to 25 hours of total study load for the student, could include:

 a) 7 hours of frontal lessons or equivalent teaching activities and the remaining hours dedicated to individual study activities;

 b) at least 12 and not more than 15 hours of laboratory activities or equivalent assisted activities in laboratory and the remaining hours dedicated to individual study activities.

Information for students with disabilities and / or SLD

 To guarantee equal opportunities and in compliance with the laws in force, interested students can ask for a personal interview in order to plan any compensatory and / or dispensatory measures, based on the teaching objectives and specifications needs. It is also possible to contact the CInAP contact person (Center for Active and Participatory Integration - Services for Disabilities and / or SLD) of the Department of Drug and Health Sciences.

Basic knowledge of general and organic chemistry.

Attendance of the course is mandatory. It is gained attending at least 70% of the lessons.

Definition of cosmetic product according to the current legislation. Safety and effectiveness of cosmetic products. Cosmetic product marketing: advertisements and Italian market.

The skin and its appendages

Structure and physiological functions of the skin and its appendages (sweat and sebaceous glands, hair, nails). The hydro-lipidic film. The natural moisturizing factor (NMF).  Biosynthesis of melanin: mechanisms and functions. Percutaneous absorption of cosmetic ingredients.

Cosmetic raw materials

INCI and CTFA nomenclatures.

Classification of cosmetic raw materials. Oils, fats and waxes: characteristics and uses. Surfactants and emulsifiers: definitions, classifications, characteristics and uses.  Rheological additives: characteristics and uses. Cosmetic preservatives and antioxidants. Colors and pigments. Perfumes and fragrances. Main natural and synthetic active ingredients used in the cosmetic fields.

Basic cosmetic formulations

Monophasic systems

Aqueous and hydroalcoholic solutions: technological properties and applications in the cosmetic field.

Oil solutions: main lipids used in the preparation of oil solutions; technological properties, preparation and applications in the cosmetic field of oli solutions.

Surfactant-based systems: main ingredients used in the preparation of surfactant based systems; technological properties, preparation and applications of liquid and solid soaps, bath foams, shampoos, intimate cleansers.

Aqueous and oil gels: technological properties, preparation and applications in the cosmetic field.

Powders: composition, technological properties and applications in the cosmetic field.

Molded anhydrous lipids: main ingredients, preparation methods and technological properties.

Biphasic systems

O/W emulsions, W/O emulsions; technological properties, preparation methods and applications in the cosmetic field.

Anhydrous and hydrated pastes: technological properties, preparation methods and applications in the cosmetic field.

Delivery systems in the cosmetic field. Liposomes, lipid nanoparticles, cyclodextrins: technological properrties and applications in the cosmetic field. 

Personal care products

Skin care products; cleaansers and hair care products. 

Sunscreen products: organic and inorganic UV-filter; sun protection factor, technological properties of sunscreen products.

Deodorants: functions, composition and technological properties.

Toothpastes: composition and technological properties.

Make-up products

Technological properties of the main make-up products.

1. Proserpio G., Le basi della Cosmetologia, SEPEM, 1992.

2. Proserpio G., Chimica e Tecnica Cosmetica, Sinerga, 1993.

3. Proserpio, Ambreck, Ceoloni, Il prontuario del cosmetologo, Tecniche Nuove, 2001.

Written exam consisting of five open questions and three questions on chemical structure and nomenclature of cosmetic active ingredients. The exam lasts 1 hour.

1. Suncreen agents
2. Cosmetic preservatives
3. Structure and functions of the skin
4. Anionic surfactants: properties and uses in cosmetics
5. Emulsions: definition, identification and preparation