PRODOTTI COSMETICI

Knowledge and understanding:

Upon completion of the course, students will understand the principles of formulation, preparation, characterization, and evaluation of major cosmetic products, the characteristics of raw materials and disperse and colloidal systems, as well as the physiological aspects of the skin and hair relevant to cosmetic action. They will also understand the main safety, efficacy, and regulatory compliance requirements for cosmetic products.

Ability to apply knowledge and understanding:

Students will be able to apply their acquired knowledge to the design and preparation of major cosmetic formulations, appropriately selecting raw materials, surfactants, emulsifiers, thickeners, and other components based on the product's characteristics and purposes.

Making independent judgments:

Students will be able to critically evaluate the formulation, technological, and functional characteristics of a cosmetic product, identifying potential critical issues in terms of stability, safety, efficacy, and quality, and justifying formulation choices.

Problem-solving skills:

Students will be able to analyze simple formulation and technological issues related to cosmetic products and identify appropriate solutions, including through the selection of raw materials, formulation systems, and the most suitable preparation and testing methods.

Learning skills:

Students will develop the ability to integrate knowledge of chemistry, technology, skin physiology, and cosmetology, and independently explore topics related to formulation innovation, efficacy and safety assessment, and regulatory developments in the cosmetics industry.

lectures (powerpoint presentation)

1. Cosmetic Products and the Cosmetics Sector

Definition of a cosmetic product and general considerations regarding the use of cosmetics. The cosmetics market and the main distribution channels. Delimitation of the scope of application of cosmetic products according to European and Italian legislation. Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 on cosmetic products.

2. Structure and Physiology of the Skin

Integumentary system and morphology of the skin. Epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis. Surface hydrolipidic film, sweat, and insensitive perspiration. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Natural moisturizing factor (NMF). Pigment system, functions, and melanin biosynthesis. Absorption and percutaneous penetration.

3. Interfacial Phenomena and Surfactants

Surface and interfacial tension, free energy, and interfacial phenomena. Surfactants: classification, properties, characteristics, and cosmetic applications. HLB concept and its determination. Micelles: structure, formation, and critical micelle concentration (CMC).

4. Disperse Systems and Colloidal Systems

Definition and classification of disperse systems. Colloidal state: size, shape, and classification of colloidal systems. Colloid stability, Nernst potential, and zeta potential. Influence of electrolytes and the role of protective colloids.

5. Gels, Suspensions, and Emulsions

Gels: definition, structure, properties, and main preparation methods. Suspensions: characteristics, sedimentation, and flocculation. Emulsions: definition, classification, and characteristics. Main physical instability phenomena, such as creaming, sedimentation, flocculation, and coalescence. Emulsifiers: selection criteria and use in cosmetic formulations.

6.  Delivery Systems in Cosmetics

Liposomes, Cyclodextrins, Nanoparticles: Characteristics and Main Cosmetic Applications.

7. Rheology of Cosmetic Formulations

Viscosity and rheological behavior of Newtonian and non-Newtonian fluids (pseudoplastic, plastic, and dilatant). Thixotropy and hysteresis loop. Main viscometers and measurement methods. Applications of rheology in the formulation, production, and control of cosmetic products.

8. Cosmetic Aerosols

Definition and characteristics of aerosols. Containers and valves. Propellants and their nomenclature. Two-phase and three-phase systems. Foaming sprays and main applications of aerosols in cosmetics.

9. Raw materials and components of cosmetic formulations

Surfactants and emulsifiers: classification, characterization, and use. Oils, fats, and waxes: characteristics and characterization methods. Hydrophilic colloids and thickeners. Preservatives for protection from microbial contamination. Antioxidants.

10. Cosmetic skin care products

Moisturizing products, anti-aging products, products for the treatment of skin blemishes, and products for maintaining and improving skin condition.

11. Products for cleansing the skin and hair

Principles and formulation of cleansing products. Bubble baths, shampoos, and cleansing emulsions.

12. Hair care and treatment products

Conditions and conditioning products. Hair dyes and colorants. Products for modifying hair structure, such as waving and shaping products.

13. Sunscreen products and skin pigmentation modulation

Products for solar radiation protection. UVA and UVB radiation, organic sunscreens, and mineral pigments. Sun protection factor (SPF). Natural and artificial tanning. Modulators of the melanogenesis process: tanning and depigmenting products.

14. Other cosmetic products

Products with depilatory action. Deodorants and antiperspirants. Toothpastes and oral hygiene products. Decorative cosmetics for nails and lips. Phytocosmetics.

15. Evaluation of the safety and efficacy of cosmetic products

Main methods for evaluating cosmetic properties. Evaluation of the safety, safety, and efficacy of cosmetic products.

16. Preparation of cosmetic formulations

Formulation principles and preparation of the main cosmetic formulations, with particular reference to the choice of raw materials, preparation methods, and technological and stability aspects of formulation

1. G. Proserpio - Le basi della cosmetologia

2. G. Proserpio, B. Ambreck, M. Ceoloni – Prontuario del cosmetologo – Tecniche Nuove.

3. I. Bonadeo – Prodotti cosmetici- Cosmetologia e tecnologia cosmetiche – Edizioni Liberia Cortina Milano.

4. G. Proserpio – Il sole e la pelle – SEPEM

5. Notes in PDF format
6. Manuale del cosmetologo II edizione - Tecniche nuove

Oral and written. Learning assessment may also be carried out on line, should the conditions require it. 

Information for students with disabilities and / or SLD: To guarantee equal opportunities and in compliance with the laws in force, interested students can ask for a personal interview in order to plan any compensatory and / or dispensatory measures, based on the teaching objectives and specifications needs. It is also possible to contact the CInAP contact person (Center for Active and Participatory Integration - Services for Disabilities and / or SLD) of the Department of Drug and Health Sciences. 
EVALUATIVE CRITERIA.
The final exam will be evaluated based on the following indicators weighted equally and consistent with what is described in the expected learning outcomes (Dublin Descriptors):
- personal processing skills and operational initiative;
- ability to consult and use bibliographic materials;
- expository skills;
- scientific understanding of the topic.
Therefore, the final grade takes into account various factors listed below.
Quality of knowledge, skills, competencies possessed and/or manifested:
(a) appropriateness, correctness and congruence of knowledge
(b) appropriateness, correctness and congruence of skills
(c) appropriateness, correctness and congruence of skills
Expository mode:
(a) Expressive ability;
(b) Appropriate use of discipline-specific language;
(c) Logical skills and consequentiality in linking content;
(d) Ability to connect different topics by finding common points and establishing a coherent overall pattern, i.e., taking care of structure, organization and logical connections of expository discourse;
(e) Ability to synthesize including through the use of the subject's own symbolism and the graphic expression of notions and concepts, in the form of, for example, formulas, diagrams, equations.
Relational qualities:
Willingness to exchange and interact with the lecturer during the interview.
Personal qualities:
(a) critical spirit;
(b) ability to self-evaluate;
(c) problem-solving skills;
(d) ability to make decisions.
 
Based on the above, the rating can be:
(a) Sufficient (18 to 20/30)
Candidate demonstrates little acquired knowledge, superficial level, many gaps. Modest expressive skills, but still sufficient to sustain a coherent dialogue; logical skills and consequentiality in connecting topics of elementary level; poor synthesis skills and rather stunted graphic expression skills; poor interaction with the lecturer during the interview.
(b) Fair (21 to 23)
Candidate demonstrates fair acquisition of notions, but little in-depth study, few gaps; more than sufficient expressive skills to sustain a coherent dialogue; acceptable command of scientific language; logical skills and consequentiality in connecting topics of moderate complexity; more than sufficient ability to synthesize and acceptable graphic expression skills.
Example Questions: 1.Describe the morphology and classification of the plant body 2. Describe the morphology of meristematic tissues 4. Characteristics and function of primary and secondary metabolites 5. Biotechnology of medicinal plants. 6. Medicinal plants for the production of hormones, vaccines, and natural and bioactive products.
(c) Good (24 to 26)
The candidate demonstrates a fairly broad background, moderate depth of knowledge, with small gaps; satisfactory expressive skills and significant mastery of scientific language; well-detectable dialogical skills and critical spirit; good synthesis skills and more than acceptable graphical expression skills.
(d) Excellent (27 to 29)
The candidate demonstrates a very extensive, well-developed body of knowledge, with marginal gaps; remarkable expressive skills and high mastery of scientific language; remarkable dialogical ability, good competence and relevant aptitude for logical synthesis; high synthesis and graphic expression skills.
(e) Excellent (30)
The candidate demonstrates a very extensive and in-depth knowledge base, any gaps irrelevant; high expressive ability and high mastery of scientific language; remarkable dialogical ability, marked aptitude for making connections between different topics; excellent synthesis ability and great familiarity with graphic expression.
Honors are awarded to candidates who are clearly above average, and whose possible limitations in notional, expressive, conceptual, and logical skills are on the whole completely irrelevant.

Exam dates

Exam dates are posted on the Department of Drug and Health Sciences (https://www.dsf.unict.it/it/corsi/l-29_ctf/calendario-esami)